2023 Sep 16-17 Roncesvalles

 RONCEVAUX


First things first. Kudos to all of the volunteers from around the world who dedicate their time and effort to provide comfort to pilgrims on the Camino. Not to undermine that thought or wishing to disappoint anyone, this is what happened to us when arriving in Roncesvalles.

When we entered the monastery grounds for the night's lodging we did not receive a warm welcome,  unfortunately. Instructions to us were tersely and rudely given. We were not allowed to ask questions without first complying with a string of orders. Some of the orders were confusing and did not really apply to us. It seemed that some in the volunteer group handling incoming pilgrims were either tired after a full day, or they just might not be very good at caring for worn out pilgrims. Or both.

We ended up going back and forth between places because it was not clear to us whether we were lodging on the dorm floors or in a private room at the associated hotel across the courtyard. We are happy to say that we were good cooperative pilgrims at every step. The bossy reception just added a sour note that seemed bigger because of how overwhelmed we already felt. It must be said as well, there were some very attentive and caring volunteers who helped us during our stay. We got things in order and made our way to our bunk bed in a shared cubicle on the second floor of a very large dorm. Oh my.

Without a doubt the work of the volunteers was impressive, and for that we are thankful.

The Complex




This was the first series of village buildings that gave us an unquestionable connection to Medieval times. In some ways it seemed haunting with all of its aged stone composition and old-style architecture. The monastery had a walled and somewhat unkempt courtyard with uneven ground consisting of dirt, rocks, and patches of thin grass, all that added to the mystique. I made sure there were no gallows for tired pilgrims on the premises. Whew!

The Dorm, The Cubicle, The Bunkbeds


As best we saw, there were two floors for allocating beds. These were long corridors with cubicles containing two bunk beds for four people total. The in-between space separating the bunks was crowded. An electrical outlet was available but its use needed to be timed because of the way that large connector adapters take space over the other plug. This was already in use.

The Dinner



At one corner of the courtyard under an arch was the entrance to the other lodging. That was the hotel portion with a restaurant that served dinner, breakfast, and in-between hold-me-overs. Dinner time is in two intervals. We got the six o'clock ticket and reunited with some fellow trekker pilgrims whom we had met in Orisson. The restaurant staff goes into frenzy mode to accommodate and serve the pilgrims. They have to make sure the tables are ready quickly for the next group. It is easy to appreciate their efforts and feel thanks that cannot be truly expressed.

A Quick-Pic Stroll






In spite of being physically and mentally worn down, that evening was the only time available for seeing the premises and its surroundings. The morning would be too busy. Above is the evening's sampling. As is always the case, the pictures shown here do not capture the fullness of being there.

6AM: The Hills Are Alive...


...with the sound of music. More specifically. Gregorian chants of the Roman Catholic church from the times of Pope Gregory, and Charlemagne's reign. The chants were crafted over the ages from acapella monks to its recorded delivery over electronic loudspeakers. The male monotone vibes gliding over your skin and sinking into your body was a mesmerizing way to awaken. In accompaniment, a scuttling of noise from hurried activity came from every direction as pilgrims prepared their exit and onward journeys. We had shared our cubicle with a young couple from Ireland. They had disappeared into the dark before we could say goodbye. So there we were slightly fazed and semi-dazed, Good Morning!

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do





For the second day in a row, our feet/legs recovery and energy restoration was amazing! We felt strong resolve and incredibly motivated. On the other hand, I did not want to leave. It felt like parting from someone who had become a good friend. After entering the church and bowing my head in prayer I gazed up and turned very slowly to receive the soft morning light filtered by the stained glass . The feeling of nostalgia and the allure of history called for me to further absorb first-hand the lasting importance and medieval charm of Roncesvalles. This was not to be. The Camino beckoned beyond the present and we could do no less than oblige.

Roncevaux, you have left a poem in my heart.




One thing left to say. ¡Vámonos!









Next: Roncesvalles to Zubiri



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