2023 Sep 18 - 22 Pamplona
PAMPLONA - 4 DAYS
I think I'm gonna be sad...
Our first night's stay was at the Albergue de la Catedral. We were met by an anxious desk receptionist who said she had called and messaged us several times wondering if we would arrive by the check-in deadline. We did not have cell service on our devices and my primary phone was malfunctioning from rain damage. She looked happy for us, especially since she was now finishing her work shift. We settled (crammed) our things into our assigned dorm beds and went dinner hunting. Just outside the albergue entrance, the sun setting on the Cathedral was splendorous. To our eyes, Pamplona was a jewel in every direction. We quickly found a place with Pintxos, Pimientos, and Cerveza, what a delight!
Day 1 (19 Sep 2023)
Martha's flight was booked for 22 Sep 2023 from Pamplona to Madrid to begin her return back to our home in South Texas. That was the first leg of the only affordable flight combinations that we could find. Sooooo, on the good side, that meant extra rest days. Being that our stay at the Albergue was only good for our first night in Pamplona we had to seek additional lodging. We decided to treat ourselves and sought to book a nice hotel that I had seen for a decent price. When we got there, Surprise! The nightly rate had jumped to over $200. The receptionist allowed me to use their wifi so I could book elsewhere. We ended up on the third floor of a very comfy private rental with a full kitchen. All good.
While waiting to check-in, we had breakfast a few doors down from our rental, where we again borrowed wifi in order to finish gaining access to our room. There we learned of some grocery options and gained a better understanding of our location. We were one street away parallel to the Estafeta street corridor used by the world-famous running of the bulls that takes place in the summer. We later saw a countdown sign saying we were 290 days away. After unpacking, our first order of business was buying groceries. We went to a market by the name of Eroski and had a wonderful time shopping around for the different goodies and ingredients that Martha would later use. My palate was a great beneficiary!
A Nice Smile and a Warm Hug - The Power of the Camino
Saying Hello/Goodbye at a sidewalk cafe to our Orisson dinner companion from South Korea was an unexpected treat. Though we may live on opposite sides of the world and struggle understanding words from different languages, we were united by an undeniable spirit of kindness and love woven by our common pilgrim's path. Until we meet again...
Toot Toot Pam Pam Hop Hop
The historic Plaza del Castillo was full of festive dancers comprised of every-day people of all ages bouncing and hopping in circles to live folk music being performed by a few men in the kiosk. The people wanting to dance deposited whatever they happened to be carrying in a center area of the large circle that the dancers had formed. Then they would join them. This was a very nice welcome into the local culture and ambience. We didn't know this at the time, but they were warming up for the big celebration known as San Fermincito (RotB without the Bulls) that weekend.
Day 2 (20 Sep 2023)
Strolling through picturesque streets and places is a favorite travel thing to do of mine, especially when they're near empty. I got up early and toured the cathedral before walking in and around the fortress walls, by bubbling fountains, and flowered balconies, all the while taking in the scenic overlooks and crisp morning air. A fellow pilgrim about to leave Pamplona spotted me, recognized my enamor and offered to show me to me in the picture she took. Gracias Peregrina...
Later Martha and I ventured out to find new hiking shoes for the remainder of my trip. We passed the iconic Statue of the Bulls and inadvertently almost kinda sorta ended up at the...
Plaza de Toros
The tourist entrance is where a bust of American novelist Ernest Hemingway is located. He is held in high esteem for the international attention his stories brought to Pamplona and its people. His understanding and admiration of their authenticity and passion literally cemented his place in Pamplona history. hahaha?
Brimming with inspiration, inside the bullring I attempted my own dramatic contribution to this beautiful city while demonstrating courage, honor, and devotion. Kneeling beneath the vast Spanish skies at ring center I made my best interpretation of a mythical warrior figure from my native Mexico known as Ilhuicamina or El Flechador del Cielo. It is said that through perseverance and great tenacity he eventually made the sky bleed in order to win the favor of his lover's father who would only consent if he could accomplish that (impossible) feat. Little did I realize how fitting the lesson would be for the remainder of my Camino.
Note: I was not escorted out.
P.S. If you ever see a bright red sunset over the Pamplona bullring, please let me know.
Pamplona Medieval Walls
Don't be Mean to San Fermín
El Encierrico is the name of a souvenir shop right in the heart of the busy streets of Pamplona. For a few Euros they offer you some outfits and curled newspapers for your personal reenactment of the Festival of San Fermín. Above, unbeknownst to the casual viewer, I was wrongly accused of aiding the bull.
Delicious Dinner and Rainy Eyes
We were happily overcoming our soreness of the multiple long days of walking. Everything was fine when Martha began preparing a dinner with the local store products, many of which were made or curated by the store owners. When she called me over to the dinner table I eagerly obliged and looked at the careful selection of art and the work in front of me as my senses took in the moment. Without warning, I became so incredibly beyond SAD as I stared down past this special home-cooked dinner. Every chamber of my being began ACHING inside, expanding outwards, and gradually engulfing me. She was leaving in two days. I would continue ALONE. And with these words I weep once more.
Day 3 (21 Sep 2023)
We left our rental room and had our last Pamplona breakfast in the historic center with our server being a single mom from Venezuela. Spain has many immigrants from the Americas all seeking a better and stable life and job opportunities. The same desires most of us share. We are all connected.
I bought a low-cost phone for calls in Spain. PRO TIP: TAKE A PICTURE OF RECEIPTS/INFO. This saved me later on the Camino when I was locked out of the phone in an important situation. The cost of the phone was MUCH less than buying/using a home-based plan. We then took a public bus to the area of the Holiday Inn Express hotel nearest the Pamplona Airport. Taking public transportation gives you a direct connection to the lives of the people. I highly recommend doing this in known safe zones. After some where-to-exit help from the driver, we had to walk through mild rain for a few blocks before reaching the hotel. We were back to a modern world. Everything there seemed crispy new. A nearby shopping mall with a food court was our last official stop in our Pamplona experience. PRO TIP #2: Ask your hotel restaurant to prepare a take-away breakfast for early morning departures.
WE DID. THEY DID!
Day 4 (22 Sep 2023)
I think I'm going to be sad. I think it's today. The girl who's driving me mad is going away, yeah. She's got a ticket to ride...
In the morning we activated our phone's international services, and fortunately for me, had a hasty farewell. Our two taxis arrived one right behind the other. Martha was off to the airport and I was taxied back to the Cathedral and the albergue where we had paused my Camino trek. Bonjour my love... My taxi driver graciously offered to take me to the where the Camino resumed on the outskirts of Pamplona as it would save me a lot of city walking. I am extremely puffy-chest and high-nose proud to say that I just as graciously declined. I insisted on being sent to the point where I could go back and suffer as much as possible - not really, I very much enjoy new adventure scenery and it was time to get walking. Epic Pamplona did not disappoint.
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